So Sparky I need to get a 24 1/4 dipstick length and then measure fluid stone cold with replacement fluid in the same area as the fluid in the vehicle so as to minimize temperature differences between old and new fluids. I'm a bit concerned about trying to work with warm to hot fluid as I won't be able to guarantee getting the replacement fluid to the same temp. My thoughts are as follows:I remeasured and the length is 24 1/4". My apologies. If you get this aprox. length you will should be fine.
I have to agree with you on the loss of faith in the dealer if I got that response on the filter question. I've seen the technical drawings and know there are two filters (one external and one internal) and, If I got that from the dealer, it would be a comment on their web site cautioning anyone from bringing their car in for service. What would frost me more is asking for the service, having them take my car in, and being charged only to find it wasn't done. I have to find a way to mark the tranny so I'll know they pulled the pan. It's a shame we have to do this - but there are so many scams out there.That's a serious technical article. Way above my level of expertise. The foremost question in my mind is, how explicitly do you trust your dealer? Say you bring in your car @ 40K-60k mi. and ask for a transmission service w/ a pan drop/new internal & external filter and are told it's something they will not do because it's neither not necessary or there isn't a serviceable filter, my faith in the dealer becomes very low as I know these filters exist and it's a good practice for the CVT's longevity. Where does that leave a person? Either an independent shop or DIY. For me personally, it's not too hard to do this service and every time I've done this on one of ours cars, the results have been for the positive. First thing I did was make a custom dipstick which gave me a cold/hot reading of the transmission fluid. (This will tell me how much to add assuming the factory put the correct amount in.) Also, one can add what amount comes out. On our other cars w/a traditional 4-6 sp. transmission, there's always some fuss on the magnets when the pan was dropped the first time. As we drive such low miles w/this Rogue Sport, I'll wait till the warranty is up before doing this just in case. I'll be curious of the fluid/filter/s & magnets condition.
Hold on guys!!! CVTs are expensive and not terribly abundant as we found with our previous 2009 Rogue. She took it to the stealership religiously for ALL maintenance. According to the service manual the techs were SUPPOSED to be checking the CVT fluid level during the scheduled maintenance, yet when it failed I checked the fluid and found it BONE DRY. This is how we came to need the newer 2015 Rogue. She just paid $350 for the transmission service, and as usual has been taking it to the stealership religiously for ALL service. But just now as I was topping off the windshield washer fluid with what I had leftover from filling mine, I noticed the coolant reservoir was bone dry. A quick peek into the radiator cap revealed that the coolant was quite low there as well. Also, the brake fluid was quite low, another service they are supposed to be staying on top of. So needless to say I have ZERO confidence in the techs working for the stealership. Now I find there is no CVT dipstick for me to check behind them doesn't exactly inspire confidence either. But I wanted to tell you all there could possibly be another reason why there's no dipstick, aside from stealership greed. It is possible since they use the "fill it till it pours out" method instead of an official service dipstick, that maybe the dipstick tube is no longer in line with an optimal area in the tranny to take a dipstick reading from. Maybe something interferes with where a dipstick would be situated, like a sensor or moving parts. I wouldn't put anything except maybe a lighted borescope camera down in there to see if there's something which could be damaged or could cause damage to the CVT from a fixed dipstick.That Nissan NS-3 cvt fluid is about $20 per quart. I watched some youtube videos for the changing cvt fluid in an Altima and a Juke and a drain and fill takes about 4-5 quarts. A 3x drain/fill will get pretty pricey. And 20k miles is pretty early. Owners manual only calls for inspection and maybe change at 60k miles (100k km) if necessary.
I saw one youtube suggestion to make a dipstick out of a coat hanger. Snake it down until it hits bottom of pan and mark off top of wire to know total depth from dipstick hole and then mark off at fluid line on the end to figure out baseline. Just have to assume it was properly filled in first place. You can then check the fluid level and quality periodically. The fresh fluid looks blue. As it ages, it gets very dark. I assume if it goes bad, it may smell burnt, but by then there may be damage.
Ours is still too new to worry about it (so says the guy who started a cvt reliabilty thread...). I'll check colour, level and smell periodically. I may do a 50k km (30k miles) change depending upon warranty status. (I like easy to remember OCIs). If there is a defect, i would prefer that it manifest itself during warranty so it can be fixed. A fluid change may mask any problem temporarily.
Sparky,I remeasured and the length is 24 1/4". My apologies. If you get this approx. length you will should be fine.
Hi All,Following on from Sparky's updates. Hopefully you are still on the forum. I did an extract at the weekend and can bore you all with the before and after results if you want them. Main points.
I confirm Sparky's dipstick length of 24-1/4 inches is what I required to get sufficient fluid onto the stick for a sensible reading at various temperatures, stone cold, driven to op temperature, engine running, engine off, cool down then check etc.etc.
The dipstick on Amazon was nowhere near long enough for my Rogue Sport. Either the factory fill varies considerably or that dipstick on Amazon is not long enough.
I ended up using a 36 inch zip tie with masking tape placed at 24-1/4 inches from the end.
Fluid was a mid chocolate brown and smelled like heavy industrial oil, not burning smell. Smelled like it would still do the business. Car as 56K miles on it.
I extracted through 'charging port' and once the extracted fluid was at the same temperature as the new fluid, I replaced exactly what I had pulled. I then went through the same warm up process using the same road route I had used on the initial warm up and dipstick readings to match the original readings.
Just FYI this would not get anywhere near a fluid reading.
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