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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did the first change this morning. Seriously considered the dealer especially as this is first one but time was tight and I can't put it off as daughter drives the vehicle and is home from college, plus it's a Saturday and probably busy at the dealer....if they are open even? Anyway I took my time and it took me way longer than I thought but here are my notes:


The first surprise,…no let’s say shock, is the plastic underbody cover is retained entirely by the press in style plastic connectors. There is not a retaining screw in sight. There is a small indent in the retainer in which to get a screwdriver blade to prise out the center piece but they are fiddly and there is a lot of them. I hit them with WD-40 to reduce the chances of snapping one. I’m assuming these are easy to get replacements? part number and source would be useful. Note the retainers along the front of the vehicle are a different size than the rest of the retainers. How long these will last is anyone’s guess. They will brittle up and disintegrate after a few years if they are similar to the Mazda style.


Oil Drain
I was able to pull 3.25 qts out using the Big Boy extractor through the dipstick tube. If I could get under the vehicle without using ramps I’m sure I could pull the remaining 0.75 qt using the extractor. There just ain’t enough room. I pulled the sump plug to get the remaining oil out and measured a total of just shy of 4 qts out. I checked the oil level before the job and it was just a tiny smidge short of the full ‘circle’ stamped in the dipstick.



Filter
This was interesting for me as I’ve never had a vehicle with a horizontal orientated filter. Absolutely no oil came out of the filter, none, so that made that part of the job clean. Filter that came with the Conyers oil change kit was xxxxx 65F0E, the one that came out of the vehicle was xxxx 65F0B. Same physical size. There was a plastic film cover over the base of the new filter, just fyi...I'm sure it would dislodge as soon as someone tried to fit the filter but ......you know how sod's law goes?



Oil Fill
I used the Conyers oil refill kit via Amazon. 25 bucks delivered. 5 qts Nissan oil, Oil Filter and a crush washer for the sump plug. The sump plug is quite short, make sure the crush washer is indeed ‘crushed’ and no slack is left in the sump plug. I used a wrench then a few taps on the wrench with a rubber head mallet to make sure there was no slack left. I’m not sure which way around the crush washer goes or if it matters but I guessed looking at the surfaces of the old one that the side with the piece ‘clipped’ out of it faces the pan. I put 4 qts oil in, and that gave me a level right on the dipstick full mark. Checked for leaks. WD40’d the retainers, made sure the centers were all pulled out and refitted the underbody cover and all looks good.




If you are a newbie to car maintenance, keep it safe. Do not crawl under a car unless it’s on ramps or supported with jackstands placed in the correct positions.
 

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At my yearly dealer oil change (because of warranty), I noticed the techs did not remove the front push in connectors on the engine cover and just let the cover dangle. (On a hoist, high in the air this is possible for them but don't have this luxury.) The push in connectors can be bought inexpensively. There is a right way to orient to washers but I bet they would seal either way. I did not notice the oil filter not having any oil in it when changing out. It's super easy to change out the oil/filter on this car. I believe as well you could use a larger filter because there's plenty of space. Mobil 1 108a > M1-110. Fram Ultra 6607>7317. Same by-pass pressure. Larger capacity. I may goes this route in the future when out of warranty. My 6 month oil/filter change is coming up soon. In the future I may go w/ 1 yr. oil/filter if I start using my Mobil 1 Extended Protection oil and Mobil 1 filter. By all means...Work safely.
 

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Yeah, not a lotta room under there, even with ramps--can you give me a recommendation for a floor jack and jack stands? I've always used ramps on my other cars so I don't know how much lift I need, what brands are good, and such. I also want to get a Fumoto oil drain valve but their website says it may not work because the drain plug is recessed.
 

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Yeah, not a lotta room under there, even with ramps--can you give me a recommendation for a floor jack and jack stands? I've always used ramps on my other cars so I don't know how much lift I need, what brands are good, and such. I also want to get a Fumoto oil drain valve but their website says it may not work because the drain plug is recessed.
I used a generic Wal-Mart metal ramp with a plastic extension. There's plenty of room with a ramp, as long as you're committed to removing the underguard (as opposed to letting it hang). If you want to let the underguard hang, I think your only option is to get a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just to follow up, I did the 2nd oil change and this time was more patient with the Big Boy oil extractor. It got every drop out. When I pulled the sump plug it was totally dry. So the plan next go around is to try and see if I can drop the front half of the plastic cover and get at the oil filter without using ramps. If that works then sump plug will stay in situ.



I notice that the Conyers oild change kit on Amazon has shot from 25 to 39 USD. I looked around and was able to get the same from my local Nissan dealer for 26USD with a coupon, so that was a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I'll order a Topsider extractor. Question for all of you who use extractors: Will an extractor get all the oil if the front end is raised on ramps so I can get to the filter?

Yes....maybe. For me I have a set of ramp extenders and I drive just far enough onto the extenders so I can wriggle underneath. I'm guessing now but I'm probably raising the front wheels about 4 to 5 inches. If you have a set of ramps that put the car up high, you would need to check after using the extractor by pulling the sump plug. Just a couple of other thoughts though.......if you can get at the oil filter from above then the vehicle can stay on terra firma and you will drain the sump. My only paranoid thought on that one is if for some reason it's a PITA to wiggle the old filter out and you can't get the new one back. Very unlikely but next oil change I'll put it on the ramp (extenders) then see if I can change the oil filter from above and if so after that I can change everything without crawling under the vehicle.
Just one other thought, my ramps are a built like a brick outhouse and that includes the extension pieces. They are a mass of welds and heavy metal. Get some good extensions I guess is what I'm trying to say. Also my Rogue Sport is a 2018, probably haven't changed the sump profile but you never know. I've had the extractor for years, it will suck both the Rogue Sport and my Mazda MPV sump totally dry. However Buick Rainier and Ford Focus it will not work on as the oil dipstick tube narrows at some point and the plastic extractor tube will not reach the sump.
If you get one though, first go around empty and measure what you pulled out so as not to overfill the sump. But it will pull the 4 qts out that's for the 2018.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK I did another oil change and was more patient with the extractor. It got every drop out. When I pulled the sump plug, not one drop of oil came out....seriously....not one drop. I'm still pondering whether I can do the job with the vehicle on the floor and loosening the oil filter from the top and then just dropping the front of the underbody cover and reaching up to unscrew the filter. I'll try on the next oil change when the weather will be cooler. I will need a slim good fitting oil filter remover if I attempt loosening from the top of the engine. At the moment I have the claw type which has been fine but isn't that maneuverable.
 
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